Depending on how one prefers to interpret history, the name given to the Cook Islands could be considered a wee bit of a misnomer. Because Captain James Cook never actually landed on the most significant island: Rarotonga. But he did set foot on a number of tiny atolls. Another dip into history: in reverence to the great navigator it was the Russian Navy that gave the name to the island group. This in 1823, 44 years after Captain Cook was murdered. But enough of the murky past.
To the touristic present, when three generations of my family recently spent nine nights at The Rarotongan Beach Resort. It was opened 45 years ago, by Sir Albert Henry, and the New Zealand Prime Minister, Robert Muldoon. It is now a stately middle-aged lady. Dignified, but with a few cracks here and there. Nevertheless loved for not being a modern hotel, but loved because of its very Cook Island-ish feel to it. Thatched roofs and high vaulted wooden ceilings. Many meandering pathways flanked by tropical growth. In the foyer a giant carving of a turtle, so heavy it would be difficult to squirrel it away in your carry bag. A detailed model of the “Bounty” of Fletcher Christian and William Bligh fame. A place to relax, knowing that you are surrounded by local culture and Pacific Ocean history.
The favoured gathering place at this resort is the ultra-long Lagoon Verandah, located right above the sea. A bit like being on the promenade deck of a cruise liner, but without any adjoining cabins, From where you can slowly savour a Pina Colada, a seafood chowder and a curried coconut chicken.
A lasting memory is of the pounding on the reef, located 200 metres from the Lagoon Verandah. I was captivated by the roaring sound at high tide. A white-water tempest, as it hurled itself at the reef. A thundering crest the height of a two storied house as it raced sideways, and to collide with another monster coming the other way. And then, like turning off a tap all is calm within the lagoon of many silver tiddlers swimming immediately below us.
The main township is Avarua. The most impressive buildings are the Ministry of Justice and the Police Station. But located nearby is goodness and hope, in direct “competition” to the stern affairs in these two buildings. This, in the name of the impressive St. Joseph’s Cathedral. In the darkness of Easter Saturday night our family, with lighted candles entered the cathedral. For over two hours we were literally lifted to the heavens as we were swept up by the full-throated harmony of the singing by the Cook Islanders.
Many years ago my wife, Ali, and our little Maria enjoyed our first Cook Island experience. We chose to stay in a little beach-side motel on the south-east coast. We needed to purchase some butter. On the main road was a tiny shop. A piece of butter was carved off, with a large knife. It was then wrapped in brown paper, and laboriously tied up with string! We chose this location because Prince Charles had enjoyed a dip here – at Muri Beach.
Today the region of Muri Beach has moved on, and is a preferred holiday area with many boutique low-rise accommodations. So preferred that even the Government House is located near here. It is from Muri Beach that Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes departs at 1100 a.m. sharp. Suddenly I discovered that I was holding up the departure. As my age is 84, it seems that there was a generational age gap. All 34 tourists – except myself – was wearing jandals and so they quickly waded to the thatch-covered glass bottom boat. No way was I going to splash to the boat in my only pair of Nike running shoes. So I must have tested the patience of those on board, as I quickly tore off my shoes, and was assisted on board.
Captain Lollipop said a prayer, probably not for salvation, but that we would see plenty of fish. At my age I do not float too well so I viewed plenty of colourful fish, from the glass-bottom vessel. An island lunch beneath coconut palms made for a lovely outing, highlighted by some locals on guitar.
You may have heard that Rarotonga does not have a single traffic light. Few buildings are higher than a coconut tree. But there is progress. You can now view the latest Blues or Hurricanes game on TV in the sports bar at the Rarotongan Beach Resort. But remember the Date Line. A Saturday night game at Eden Park, is live in Rarotonga – on a Friday night!
Thankfully, the Cook Islands is still very laid back. Where in the world would one see a bantam rooster strutting it stuff, in the check-in area of an airport?
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Prices as at April, 2022, subject to change:
Return air fare ex Auckland: $860.00. Twin room at The Rarotongan Beach Resort, non beach view, including continental breakfast: $260.00. Every 30 minutes there is a bus service that circles the island. All day pass: $16.00. 10 ride concession: $30.00. Rental car from $70 per day, plus gas. Restaurant prices: Entree: $12 to $15.00. Mains: $25 to $35.00. A cocktail: $12 to $15.00. A beer: $8.00. Captain Tama’s cruise with lunch: $89.00.
